Capital Charm: The Ultimate First-Timer’s Guide to Hanoi, Vietnam
Pastries, pho and pagodas are just the start of what Vietnam’s capital city has to offer
There’s a gentle rivalry between Vietnam’s two major cities, but secretly, we prefer the peaceful calm of Hanoi. For first-timers, it may seem like this northern city is just as congested and intense as Ho Chi Minh City, but explore deeper and you’ll discover quiet temples where the noise of motorbikes quickly melts away, and the sound you hear most often is local chatter over a bowl of pho.
The city also has a captivating history spanning French colonial rule and the Vietnam War, which can be seen in everything from its cuisine to its architecture, ensuring visitors are immersed in the city without even realising it. For those who Hanoi hasn’t yet beguiled, here’s where to go on your next trip.
Signature sights
Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre
Some claim it’s an overly touristy experience, but you’ll notice locals among the stalls too; water puppet shows have long been a Vietnamese tradition and shows here are an impressive display of artistry and dexterity. This particular theatre is undoubtedly the best-known in the city, having hosted master puppeteers for over 50 years. Each show tells a story of history, village life or a local legend, and the puppet masters use the water masterfully alongside intricate puppets, sets and a traditional orchestra to bring the tale to life.
Tip: If you have time to make it out of the city, visit Dao Thuc, a centuries-old craft village that continues to make puppets by hand.
Hanoi Old Quarter
Initially, Hanoi’s Old Quarter seems like a mix of buzzing cafes and restaurants, tourist shops selling faux North Face gear and motorbikes in every direction. In fact, the 36 streets that make up the Old Quarter are home to some of the city’s best things to see and do.
Keen-eyed visitors will notice that many street names begin with ‘Hang’ which means merchandise. This is a historic reference which is still noticeable today. There’s a street selling almost everything, from silver and buckets, to bamboo, sugar and curtains. It’s easy for the hours to run away with you while combing for souvenirs, clothing, traditional products and more. We highly recommend switching off your phone and getting lost in the chaos, but if you need a starting point, head to Dong Xuan Market, which holds three storeys of sights, sounds and aromas.
The Old Quarter is also home to Hanoi’s most snapped spot, Train Street. Join crowds of tourists to get an iconic photo of the train trundling within inches of the street’s cafes - where you’ll need to sit and buy a drink anyway to access the road. Finally, for those who want to sip on a few too many Bia Hois, Friday and Saturday nights see the Old Quarter jam-packed with backpackers and pumping music. To get into the centre of the action, pull up a tiny red chair at any local restaurant near Ta Hien Street and watch the mayhem with an ice-cold beer.
Hoan Kiem Lake
The high-octane Old Quarter, which just steps away, seems a distant memory at Hoan Kiem Lake, often seen as the heart of the city. The best way to experience it is to simply take a leisurely stroll - on the way around, you’ll spot locals practising Tai Chi, walking their dogs or taking in the view. Ngoc Son Temple sits right on the lake, built in traditional Vietnamese style and accessed via a striking scarlett bridge.
Also on the lake, although you’ll need a strong front crawl to reach it, is Tháp Rùa (Turtle Tower). This small, floating tower was built to honour Le Loi, who helped overthrow French rule in Vietnam. Legend has it that a holy turtle gave Le Loi a magical sword to help defeat the Ming army, and after his victory, he returned to Hoan Kiem Lake to give the sword back to the turtle.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Ho Chi Minh is one of Vietnam’s most historically significant figures and a pivotal figure in the country’s revolution. He is buried in a mausoleum which also houses a museum, and it remains one of the most well-known structures in the city. Aside from admiring the mausoleum itself, which is free to enter, visitors can also wander around Ba Dinh Square, where Ho Chi Minh proclaimed Vietnamese independence, explore the Ho Chi Minh Museum and walk around the gardens of the Presidential Palace. Early risers shouldn’t miss the daily flag raising ceremony, which occurs every day at 6AM, but if the alarm ‘doesn’t go off’ they lower it again at 9PM.
Tip: Aside from covering shoulders and knees, the mausoleum has unconventional opening hours. It’s open during the morning on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday, Also, from 7:30AM – 10:30AM in summer and 8AM - 11AM in winter. It remains closed on Mondays, Fridays and afternoons, and also closes annually for around two months in autumn, so it’s worth checking before you visit.
Hotels to call home
Sofitel Metropole Hanoi
A hotel that is, and may always be, the grand dame of Hanoi. The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi began welcoming visitors in 1901, and while the mod-cons might be updated, it still retains plenty of Old World charm. Everyone who’s anyone has stayed here, from Charlie Chaplin to Graham Greene, after which many of the suites are named. Talking of, we recommend staying in one of those historic suites which lie in the Heritage Wing, or one of the equally lavish new Metropole suites. Expect timeless Indochine interiors, a private balcony and Balmain toiletries, along with white-glove service from your private butler.
Elsewhere on the property is an outdoor swimming pool, spa and gym, but the highlight is the restaurants and bars. For an injection of caffeine, 1940s bartender Nguyen Giang invented Vietnam’s famous egg coffee here, which you can sip at La Terrasse. Le Beaulieu is the hotel’s signature French dining spot, while Spice Garden whips up haute Vietnamese cuisine.
Credit: Capella Hanoi
Capella Hanoi
We love a Bill Bensley hotel and just like Capella Bangkok, Capella Ubud et al, the Hanoi outpost hits all the right notes. The building has a palatial majesty, and that’s before you step inside. Guests are greeted with bold, eclectic decor, bright patterns and fun artwork which seeps into the rooms. Allow us to wax lyrical about the opera suites, which are named after famous figures and feature intricate frescoes, jewel tones and warm lighting. Smaller rooms are slightly more pared back but still lean heavily into art deco and glitz. The Grand Opera Suite, themed around Madame Butterfly, is the pièce de résistance, encompassing a kitchen, 10-seat dining room, marble bathroom, balcony and Jacuzzi.
The indoor pool at Capella Hanoi is akin to Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors, and you should definitely make a stop at Auriga Spa for a treatment. All-day dining is at Backstage, surrounded by opera memorabilia and traditional murals. For dinner, Michelin-starred Koki is one of Hanoi’s best Teppanyaki and Izakaya restaurants, and for some late night glamour, perch at the bar in The Hudson Rooms
Tip: You’d never know it, but inside The Hudson Rooms is another 16-seat bar called Track 61. It’s invite only, has a secret entrance and no phones are allowed. Their collection of spirits, particularly whiskey, is some of the best in the world and if selected to drink here, you’ll also enjoy fresh oysters and fine cigars, but you didn’t hear it from us.
Bars and bites
Bun Cha Huong Lien
There are a few restaurants on the tourist trail that are there for a reason, one of which is Bun Cha Huong Lien. This hole-in-the-wall spot rose to fame after being visited by duo Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain in the latter’s series Parts Unknown. Take their lead and find a seat upstairs to order the classic bun cha (made with grilled pork, noodles and dipping sauce), spring rolls and a Bia Ha Noi for less than $5.
La Badiane
La Badiane, meaning ‘star anise’ is the place to go for a taste of Vietnamese food with French flair. It’s the perfect mix of laid-back yet local; staff buzz around ensuring everything is perfect, but the restaurant itself, inside a colonial-style home, feels tranquil. The menu offers French and Vietnamese dishes or a fusion of both, including a set menu which is both excellent value and great for those with decision fatigue.
Gia
We love a menu that’s always changing and Michelin-starred Gia delivers in spades. Their contemporary twist on Vietnamese cuisine involves a tasting menu of local flavours and ingredients ranging from mangoes and betel leaves to king prawns and caviar, all displayed with creative vision. You can get to know the chef one-on-one after your meal and the restaurant hovers just above dim for a slightly secretive feel.
Pho 10
Make sure you visit the correct Pho 10 in Hoan Kiem District, which has such a strong following that there are a number of copycats in the city. Hordes of tourists can often be seen queuing here, but for once, that doesn’t equate to pure social media hype. Pho 10 is rightly known as one of Hanoi’s best budget pho spots, with a variety of menu choices, including brisket, beef fillet and chicken. You can watch them load up your dish in the kitchen, and although decor is basic, tables are laden with chilli, garlic and more to uplift the flavours further.
Credit: Facebook/The Haflington
The Haflington
The Haflington was named one of Asia’s best bars in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2024, and its star continues to rise. Also in Hoan Kiem District, the sophisticated drinking den feels like stepping into the home of an English explorer - a dinosaur skeleton above the bar, cabinets of curiosities and gilded portraits set the scene. In actuality, the venue is inspired by museums in Western Europe and this can be seen in their inspired cocktails, such as The Last Empire and Hidden Century, featuring only the finest 18-year Macallan, Pisco Gobernador and other tantalising flavours. There’s also a smoking room and a whiskey bar.
