Make the most of a visit to Cambodia’s buzzing capital with our curated picks of the city’s most unmissable spots.

Far from being just a stopover destination for travellers on their way to Siem Reap, Phnom Penh is a city with a deep history that has an emerging luxury scene, some of Cambodia’s best restaurants and a lively local culture waiting to be uncovered.

Places to explore

The Killing Fields (Choeung Ek) and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S21)

It’s impossible to discuss visiting Cambodia’s capital without mentioning the Killing Fields and S21. The Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot’s reign are still deeply ingrained in the local psyche, and the Cambodian civil war is part of recent history, with the period still living memory for many Cambodians. South of the city, Choeung Ek Genocidal Center was used as an execution site by the Khmer Rouge, with at least one million people murdered here in the 1970s. Visiting its mass graves and tower filled with skulls is a gut-wrenching experience brought to life through audio guide, but it is essential for understanding Cambodia’s past.

In the city proper, stop at Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum next - most organised trips will pair the two together. What was once a school was turned into a prison for torture and interrogation by the Khmer Rouge. Visitors receive an audio guide with firsthand accounts, with the chance to wander around the still-preserved rooms and galleries, which house thousands of photos of victims still unidentified.

Royal Palace of Cambodia

Cambodia’s Royal Palace is one of Phnom Penh’s most instantly recognisable sights, standing impressively alongside the waterfront. It’s one of the city’s most striking examples of traditional Khmer architecture and inside, visitors can explore the impressive residence of Cambodia’s royal family and the Silver Pagoda, and wander around the well-manicured palace gardens. Every afternoon and evening, the lawn outside the palace becomes a favourite picnic spot among locals, offering a glimpse into city life - but this means going earlier in the day to admire it without the crowds.

Street 240

If retail therapy is on the cards (and isn’t it always?) Street 240 is the best places to shop in Phnom Penh. This is one of the city’s trendiest areas, packed with truly local shops, stylish cafes and cool artwork. It’s particularly good for buying souvenirs if you’re keen to avoid the ‘same same but different’ products found in many tourist shops, thanks to boutiques selling handmade fabrics, furnishings and other decor. Take a break with a coffee before enjoying a sweet snack from The Shop 592, which displays an incredible selection of chocolates, including some made with local ingredients like Kampot pepper.

Tuol Tompoung (Russian Market)

Doing as the locals do in Phnom Penh means exploring under-the-radar neighbourhoods. Our pick is Tuol Tompoung, also known as the Russian Market. New shops and cafes open every day around here, and the Russian Market itself is always alive with vendors selling fruit, vegetables and other exciting produce. It’s also gaining a name for itself as one of the best foodie neighbourhoods in PP - Eleven One Kitchen is a stylish option for local and Western cuisine, while Lot 369 TTP whips up delicious brunch and coffee.

Hotels to call home

Rosewood Phnom Penh

Many people (us included) would argue that there’s only one choice when it comes to staying in luxury in Phnom Penh. Perched on the upper 14 floors of the city’s Vattanac Capital Tower, Rosewood Phnom Penh combines panoramic views with local design. Within its walls are six different dining outlets, an art gallery and the capital’s best rooftop bar. There are 137 rooms, including 37 suites which come with a complimentary city tour and evening drinks. And that’s not to mention the peaceful spa and 22-metre indoor lap pool for when the humidity gets too much.

Raffles Hotel Le Royal

Another majestic grand dame is Raffles, a brand synonymous with total luxury and world-class hospitality. This outpost has architecture inspired by Khmer art but retains the natural light-filled spaces and clean style of all Raffles properties, ensuring it leads the way as one of the best hotels in Phnom Penh. Each room is a sanctuary of bright white with Art Deco additions, with suites featuring amenities such as balconies, a clawfoot tub and butler service. Gastronomic choices include modern Khmer at Restaurant Le Royal and French cuisine at Le Phnom 1929, or we’d suggest stretching out with a drink by the sparkling central pool.

The Balé

If ultra-luxe outside the city is more your speed, The Balé should be at the top of the list. Made up of just 18 private suites on the banks of the Mekong, the hotel’s buildings appear to float on expansive ponds linked by warmly lit walkways. Riverfront suites overlook the brilliantly blue infinity pool and come with daybeds, a living area, a Jacuzzi and a floating king-sized bed, all tied together with unique Cambodian artefacts and artwork. Theato Restaurant serves a combination of elevated Southeast Asian cuisine and Western fare, but for a chance to learn a new skill, the hotel’s private Khmer cooking classes let you make your amok and eat it too.

Shops, bars and bites

Markets of PP

Phsar Thmei, or Central Market, should be on every visitor’s foodie wishlist. The sights, sounds and aromas that drift through the market are eclectic, and the dramatic Art Deco building is impressive in itself. Bypass the crowds of tourists, skip the sections selling souvenirs and jewellery and follow your nose. The food court here has dishes in every direction, from adventurous choices like grilled snake, to delicious pork noodle soup and borbor (pork porridge). When the sun sets, swap one market for another at the riverside Night Market. It may be a tourist hotspot, but the food stalls are always abuzz. Try lort cha (stir-fried Cambodian pin noodles) or comforting mango sticky rice, best enjoyed while watching the world go by on the Tongle Sap river.

Villa 5

Villa 5 is one of the best restaurants in Phnom Penh for trying Cambodia's magical flavours. Chef Sao Sopheak leads the kitchen, serving up a menu of Khmer and international dishes with a contemporary spin, using local ingredients and innovative flair, while the staff are endlessly friendly and helpful.

Bassac Quarter

Love it or loathe it, Bassac Lane and its surrounds hold a dizzying mix of Phnom Penh’s bars and restaurants, a few of which are real standouts. There are several eateries that serve international cuisine - our picks are Namaste India Restaurant, which does consistently great north Indian food; and Mama Wong’s Dumpling & Noodle House, where they plate up Asian tapas in a cute, warmly-lit setting. For a tipple, White Rabbit is an atmospheric micro-bar with delicious drinks and interiors that feel like a secret society headquarters. Don’t miss Abode Bar and Lounge for upmarket food with wine pairings and Casa Diego, which hides a mean tapas menu, cocktails and cigar list.

Cuisine Wat Damnak

Cuisine Wat Damnak’s original Siem Reap eatery features on the World’s Best Restaurants list, and the Phnom Penh location is just as impressive. Chef and founder Joannès Rivière brought French artistry and Khmer flavours together 15 years ago, and both restaurants still use fresh, local ingredients to this day. We recommend opting for dinner when they serve an eight-course tasting menu of creative dishes, plus wine and cocktails.